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2025SS “Plainsong” は、英国サルトリアルの伝統をベースに、現代的なずれや反骨性を重ねたコレクションです。
テーラードを軸に、Judy Blame へのオマージュとして エンブレム/ボタンワークのコラージュ的配置が特徴。
クラシックの秩序に小さな違和感を混ぜる、Soloist 特有のアプローチが全体を貫きます。
こちらは、Plainsong の“クラシック側の柱”となる 1B Brit Jacket のサンプルモデル。
黒のピンストライプウールを用いた端正な1B構造の上に、
胸・袖・背面へ ミリタリーやカレッジを想起させるエンブレムパッチを散らし、
英国テーラリングのフォーマル性を軽く崩すバランスで仕上げられています。
中肉のウールサージに総裏仕立てで、シルエットは肩〜裾へまっすぐに落ちる
Soloist らしいシャープなジャケットライン。
“伝統と遊び”という Plainsong の核を最もストレートに体現した一着です。
This item is a sample of the single-breasted blazer, known as the "Brit Jacket," produced during the development stage for TAKAHIROMIYASHITA TheSoloist.'s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, "Plainsong." The collection is centered on Miyashita's philosophy of "correcting the way clothes are worn" and was conceived as a "smartened-up rebellion" against the perceived sloppiness in fashion.
The base jacket is cut with sharp, classic tailoring, featuring a black fabric with white pinstripes, faithfully maintaining the sense of "properness" and "decorum" central to the collection's aim. However, the most prominent feature is the application of a multitude of crest patches and emblems across the entire garment—the front, sleeves, and back—in stark contrast to the formal canvas.
This intense, decorative detail, drawing from military and college elements, symbolizes the smart rebellion of asserting "individuality and freedom" while maintaining the control of the tailored structure. By intentionally overlaying this forceful, non-compliant design onto a structured jacket, the piece strikes a balance between form and freedom, tradition and play.
Furthermore, details such as velvet reinforcement beneath the inner collar demonstrate meticulous craftsmanship, reflecting Miyashita's deep commitment to tailoring. The 1B Brit Jacket perfectly encapsulates the "Plainsong" theme of possessing "strength and assertiveness" while preserving "proper structure and decorum," making this unreleased sample piece a significant document of the collection's creative development.
[サイズ] (Size) -
[着丈] (body length) 74cm
[身幅] (body width) 52cm
[肩幅] (shoulder) 46cm
[袖丈] (sleeve length) 67cm
[状態] (Condition) 10/10
[アイテム番号] (Item Number) sj.0001c
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